About a month ago, I was dining with a friend at St. Anselm, a cozy steakhouse in Brooklyn, when I saw something on the wine list that I never expected to see: Pinot Grigio. Not only was this a strange choice for a steakhouse—a wimpy white for a caveman-caliber piece of meat?—but this wine list was also pretty hip. Which, well, Pinot Grigio just…isn’t. It’s thin, sometimes too fruit-forward, lacking in character, and often tastes mass-produced. Like some $7 White Zinfandel or a super buttery Chardonnay, it’s what I thought of as “mom wine.” Read More
—Danielle Walsh
